Korean New Year (설날)

Korean New Year coincides with Chinese new year. I had the opportunity to attend, as in Asia, this is the time to come together. We wear formal clothes, or traditional clothes (hanbok,) and bowed to our elders, we performed ancestral rites, and the children received a personal grace and money from their elders after performing a formal bow. We also eat traditional food, with tteokkuk 떡국 (soup with sliced rice cakes).

Winter Olympics in Korea

pyeongchang.jpgWe visited the winter Olympics in Korea over the last two weeks. Very special: My whole family came over from The Netherlands, and we met at the Incheon airport. The Olympics are in Pyeongchang, a remote town on the East side of the country. With the new high-speed train we arrived within two hours (while streaming the opening of the Olympics on my laptop via Wi-Fi), where we met my in-laws in PyeongChang. beach.JPGAnother special moment; the last time we were all together like this was at our wedding eight years ago. Residing at a beautiful location on a twenty minute drive from PyeongChang. We stayed at a presbytery. You read that right. With the overbooked hotels, we found this place via-via and were the only visitors in this serene place. The priest was very nice and also enjoyed watching the Olympics. The place provided a tranquil place in the mountain, a nice base to retreat after the busy Olympics. pyeongchang_house.JPG PyeongChang is one of the least polluted areas in the country, and we enjoyed clear blue skies for almost the entire trip. Besides that, it had just snowed so we could also have some fun with the kids. niceweather.jpgAlthough it was sunny, it was very windy time to time. The Dutch TV did a joke where they put all complaining journalists clips after each other: “It’s so cold in PyeongChang!” it was time to time about -10 Celsius and hard winds made it feel really cold. What do you expect, it’s a winter Olympics! However, with the kids we had to reduce outside exposure. Our visit to the Olympic stadium was cut short as it just wasn’t fun outside. olympic_stadium.JPGFor the events our family visited a stadium almost daily. Mostly speed skating, but we also checked ice hockey, skiing and figure skating. Most of the events were in Gangneung, it was convenient that we could borrow the priests van and drive back and forth. The schedule was hectic. Matches would take up to 11pm and the next morning another event was waiting for us.The Olympics Speed skating is far from PyeongChang at Gangneung, a city at the sea side. This Olympic park hosted the speed skating, ice hockey, figure skating and curling. Furthermore there were some pavilions like the Team Korea pavilion, and the Tokyo Olympics display.

We spend a lot of our time inside the ‘Gangneung Oval’, the speed skating track.stadium.jpg It was clear the organization had to get used to hosting the speed skating. In the beginning of the week, they had volunteers request the audience not to make too much noise. (hah!) An error that was quickly corrected, soon the Koreans visitors were the noisiest of them allcrowd.JPG. During break times, they organized activities like Kpop bands and kiss-cams, a different time filling then we are used to in The Netherlands, nice to experience .The Dutch teams did very well, especially interview.jpgin the first weeks. It was fun seeing them win. Of course we also visited the Holland Heineken House – where the athletes are cheered by (mostly) the Dutch visitors, and were interviewed by Dutch TV a couple of times, which was funny.

Retro futurism: Taejeon ’93 expo 

Not sure if you have visited Daejeon, South Korea before, but when you come from the highway you are welcomed by a huge expo park before entering the city. After driving by for almost a decade, we made a stop, I never had a look up close. My in-laws were surprised that we could have a look of the remainders up close. The ’93 Expo (Deajeon was still called Taejeon) -대전 엑스포 was perhaps one of the last exhibitions of wonder. What I mean by that is based on our visit to the 2010 Shanghai expo which was cool, but did not showcase anything new besides architecture. At the time we concluded that the internet ruined expo’s forever. That’s why I like the photo’s above. Most photos above are from the internet or taken at the museum. Still today in Daejeon you can see how important the expo was for the city considering it’s location and to many business or complexes still referring the 25 years ago event. The Expo was about showcasing technology from the ‘future’ like maglev trains, robots and 4d cinema’s. (Little about phones tv considering Korea becoming a powerhouse in both) – It was a time everything seemed possible because of the unlimited possibilities of technology. I like that retro-futurism of those days. Today, realism sent in and the park is slowly replaced with new apartments, the park is probably gone soon. If you happen to get out there, the attached museum for Expo’s is certainly worth while as well. Talking about showcasing novel technology, here was a showcase from around the world’s expo’s. How about a vacuum machine from 1915, a wooden cloth hanger (’33), or a plastic toothbrush? (’33) Surprising how seemingly mundane objects to us now where objects of wonder one day. Needles to say us ’90s kids had fun.

Swimming & Science Museum in Daejeon










Just a nice weekend in Korea. We visited the local pool and visited the science museum which featured a beautiful children park where our daughter changed her first car wheel! The science park featured a number of nice ways to combine learning (space, engineering, the body) and play, or daughter (and us) loved it!

Buying gochu (hot pepper) at a biologic farm

collage-2015-08-30 (1)Meet Mr. Shin, a biologic farmer based a short drive outside Daejeon city. A brief shopping visit turned into an marvelous tour and delicious lunch. Driving through past the lakes, vast mountains and up the hairpin corners was quite a scenery change to the past few days. The last parts were too steep for our small Hyundai as we came to a stop and slide up the slippery road, so Mr. Shin came down with a four wheel quad to carry us further. He was excited to show us around; Beside a vast amount of hot peppers, there were peaches, apples, acorn, sweet potatoes, cows, dogs and goats. The quick ‘shopping’ trip turned into an authentic lunch as his wife invited us for a warm meal. Mr. Shin is 50 and he bought the five acre land for about 400k euro in 2013 and has been land scraping, building ever since. Recently he actually started farming outside his office job and he hopes to retire and enjoy this hobby full time within in five years. The happy couple are building something nice here, not a bad way to retire! We all enjoyed the food and left with a car full of peppers. Going to enjoy a (biologic) spicy year!

Korean Baseball is awesome (+ tv appearance)

watching the game

Baseball is insanely popular in Korea. We were fortunate enough to score some tickets for a particular exciting game in the season (the local Hanwha Eagles #6 vs. the Samsung Lions #1). For a Dutchy this was all new for me and I have to say that I really liked the game vibe, atmosphere and food*.

Suddenly we were approached for an interview right at the break of the fifth inning. I got a bit nervous when she mentioned it would be a live (but scripted) interview during break time.

So there we were, taken backstage and up to the reporter areas. The 30 second interview was about our family and asked why we came to Korea (obviously for this particular game), and what dutch people think about Korean baseball. Ofcourse we also did a little cheer for the local team. So I’m a proud father of a eight month old daughter who made an appearance on Korean tv!

After a bad start of the match Hanwa (#6 in competition) actually beat the #1 in the competition; The stadium exploded with cheer. We got a signed baseball too!

All and all: We had a great day!

cmb2 hanwha daejeon suna dorresteijn
*Koreans shout ‘FIGHTING!’ to cheer someone or a team on. In terms of food, Chimek is great at sports events; CHIcken and MEKchu (beer); Basically KFC style crispy chicken with hot sauce and a cold beverage, what a combo!

Travelling Korea; The food, the people and the nature

Arrived at the beach (Boryeong).

Arrived at the beach (Boryeong).

I was delighted to visit the sea in Korea! Since the end of the summer season was also approaching here, family was worried that I wanted to swim, but to my surprise the sea was warmer then I’m used to. This Boryeong beach is famous for an annual mud festival. The place is buzzling with small dining ventures and mud therapy centers. And actually, I wasn’t the only one in the water; The people in the water came to swim or hang out on their inflatable boats.

Hwe (회) with fresh sidedishes

Hwe (회) with fresh sidedishes

After swimming we ate ‘Whe”, thinly sliced raw fish and other raw seafood (similar to Japanese sashimi); This restaurant was based right outside the port, full with small fisher vessels. Based on the first floor of the building, we had a great view over the harbor. Whilst getting used to eating while sitting on the floor, the Soju was welcomed with these raw foods. (Korean rice liquor) The food wasn’t cheap but it was quite an experience.

Having a Chuseok dinner with the family. Felt part the group regardless of limited Korean.

Having a Chuseok dinner with the family. Felt part the group regardless of limited Korean.

Another marker of the end of the summer were the Chuseok preparations, which is a celebration of the good harvest, Koreans visit their ancestral hometowns and share a feast of Korean traditional food such as songpyeon and rice wines such as sindoju and dongdongju. It’s a typical time to meetup with the family. Unfortunately I had to travel back to the Netherlands for the real ceremony but I was happy to join the mother’s side of the family for a great dinner.

Ran 11km until the 대전천. (new Daejeon bridge)

Ran 11km until the 대전천. (new Daejeon bridge)

To keep in shape and defeat jet-lag, I ran an 11km run upon arrival. I really wanted to run but Korean traffic seems really dangerous and I don’t like waiting for traffic lights while working out. An alternative plan was to do 40 rounds on the university’s running track. Fortunately, I found a river running all the way from our appartment to the city center. This was a great to run, as you can see in the photo there was a dedicated cycle track with soft asphalt. Mountains in the distance and a river. I saw crane birds, storks wonderful. Closer to the city, Koreans were sitting beside the water, I found that a friendly nod leads to smiles like 99% of the time :-)

In Korea, if you ask a barista for a ‘Dutch Coffee’ you get cold coffee with ice cubes.

The chemical lab looking device (photo) works like this: You add a liter of ice water in the top level water container, followed by about 100 grams of grounded coffee in the compartment below, then simply let’s it run and wait for about 6 hours. The ceramic or paper filter starts dripping and you store the dutch coffee in the fridge. Really refreshing! Whilst I saw this device for the first time in 2012, I was able to order Dutch coffee in most Korean coffee places, and even in Shanghai. Read more in my blogpost from 2012 regarding this coffee.

At Kakao office and meeting with Sun Hyun-woo of talktomeinkorean.com

At Kakao office and meeting with Sun Hyun-woo of talktomeinkorean.com

Korea is such a dynamic place which gives me a lot of energy. Yesterday I meetup with Kakao. Their Kakaotalk messenger is the ‘Whatsapp/wechat’ of Korea, and outside. They have 140 million visitors, it’s great technology of which a lot can be learned. Very exciting to see their office from the inside and have a peek into this technology company; It shows that Korea harbors modern and cutting edge technology companies these days. See more pictures from their office here. Besides Kakao, I also had the pleasure to meet Sun Hyun Woo. Hyunwoo Sun is a YouTube star and one of the best Korean language teacher in the world. Together with the team he built he has a community of over 110.000 Korean learners (200k facebook likes) around the world. If you are interested in Korea and the Korean language there is no way not to find Hyunwoo Sun’s free lessons on http://talktomeinkorean.com. Since they started a cafe (named you are here cafe) in Hongdae, we couldn’t resist to have a look and meet the people behind this concepts.

Compulsary Korean barbeque on the last night

It was a short trip. Almost forgot to eat some Korean barbecue. Actually, Korean food is about way much more then barbecue. But who can say no to such a dinner before leaving back home?

Calligraphy Workshop

These weekly Korean lessons in Amsterdam are taking a large part of my weekends, so when non curriculum events occur I usually get on my way. However, last week, they organised a calligraphy workshop.

Since my father-in-law considers calligraphy more then a hobby, I felt obliged to partake. Whilst I didn’t expect it, calligraphy is quite fun. There is also something tranquil about putting hangeul or a hanja character on paper. Together with an official stamp, our first attempts looked like the real deal.

Hendrick Hamel

20131124-231839.jpgAlmost every Korean has heard about Hamel, have you heard about him? He was the first westerner to write about Korea, back in 17th Century. In 1653, he arrived at Jeju island (link follows to my holiday at jeju) along with his crewmates. He was a bookkeeper for the Dutch East India Company. They were actually on their way to Japan. The men were captured by the Koreans and were forbidden to leave the country. After 13 years they managed to escape to Japan and bring back his writings to the Netherlands.

Every history book in Korea mentions his name. The first public recognition of Hamel in the Netherlands occurred early in the 20th century, when a local street was named after him. They also made a statue for him. As we passed by Gorinchem yesterday, a visit to his statue and a picture were obligatory. His journal is published as a book under his name.